My phone rang about a month ago, and Reverend Clete Kiley of the Faith and Politics Institute invited me to join the Institute's 9th Annual Congressional Civil Rights Pilgrimage to Alabama, led by one of my heroes, SNCC chairman John Lewis. The three day journey visits the key civil rights sites in Alabama's early struggle, ending with a march across the Edmund Pettus Bridge, where Lewis and several hundred marchers were beaten, teargassed, and attacked by police on horseback on "Bloody Sunday," March 7, 1965.
I was invited to speak to the delegation on this year's theme: the contribution of Jews to the civil rights movement, on a panel to be moderated by Nina Totenberg, much-beloved legal reporter for National Public Radio. But before I get to the panel, I'd like to tell my experience of the journey from the time we left Washington, DC on Friday afternoon to returning Sunday night.
We met at the Rayburn Building near the Capitol on Friday at 1 PM and boarded several buses for a charter flight leaving from Reagan National Airport. I would be lying if I didn't admit how much fun it was to have a police escort with lights blaring, stopping traffic in downtown DC as we drove to the airport. We were surrounded by very disciplined Secret Service men and women on every step of the journey, including this handsome gentleman.
The honorary delegation leaders -- House Majority Leader Steny Hoyer (D-Maryland) and Roy Blunt (R-Missouri) welcomed us on the Delta flight. The delegation of 180 people included 30 members of the House of Representatives, their spouses, civil rights luminaries, local politicians and local people, and special guests invited to contribute to the program.
The Journey
BIRMINGHAM
Despite the excitement of traveling with such a distinguished delegation, I found it far more overwhelming to visit the places I have spent years studying. Things happened very fast, so it was hard to fully take in the fact that our first stop was Birmingham's 16th Street Baptist Church, where, on Sunday, September 15, 1963, a bomb exploded during Sunday services, killing the four girls -- Addie Mae Collins, Cynthia Wesley, Carole Robertson (all 14), and Denise McNair (age 11).
Inside the church we met and sang with two women heroes: Dorothy Cotton, former Education Director for Dr. King's Southern Christian Leadership Conference, and Betty Mae Fikes, who got involved with SNCC as a teenager in Selma. The daughter of a gospel singer, she joined the Freedom Singers--her deep and powerful voice was a sustaining force. I got to thank her (below).
Kelly Ingram Park, a staging ground for many civil rights demonstrations, is diagonally across from the church. In 1963, in that park, police turned water hoses and dogs on children who left the church to demonstrate. The park has several powerful monuments, including one where you have to walk between two walls with sculptures of snarling dogs jutting out at eye level. It felt like walking throught the cattle car at the Holocaust Museum.
The man taking the photograph in the picture above is Keith Ellison, the first Muslim member of Congress and the first African American from Minnesota to serve in Congress. Keith put me to shame (as a historian) by interviewing everyone with his video camera--from his fellow Congress members to his teenage son to me to local police in Selma--about what this journey meant to them.
We then toured the Civil Rights Institute, which was very impressive. I "read" the museum as a historian, and really appreciated its material culture and the way it contextualized the civil rights movement in time, in place, and as part of an ongoing global struggle for human rights. There were little details that suggested the museum was based on current scholarship, like mention of the "Club From Nowhere," which was a group of domestics who raised money for the movement. Odessa Woolfolk, one of the founders of the Institute, surprised me by telling me that she used my book in teaching about women in the CRM. One never knows.....
Among many speakers at dinner that night, the most moving was Spencer Bachus, a Republican serving his ninth term as a member of the House from Alabama. He told a story about his father. "My father was not a hero," he said. But unlike all the other white businessmen around him, his father allowed Black men to bid for subcontracts under his construction business. At the time, that was really going out on a limb in the community. Spencer Bachus was shaking as he talked about the ways the South has and has not changed. He illustrated the tenuousness of the process in a very authentic and personal way. It was very humbling to be in the South and to hear local white politicians admitting that change had come but there was a ways to go, and practically begging people not to give up on Birmingham, Montgomery, and Selma.
TWINS--SEPARATED AT BIRTH
I enjoyed meeting Debbie Wasserman Schultz (D-Florida). I said I hated being called Debbie and she said the only time she is called Debra is when her mother is mad at her.
MONTGOMERY
We started the day at the Rosa Parks Children's Museum, a high tech, multi-media experience. You are ushered into a "bus" which functions as a time machine. You travel back in time to review key moments in African American history. On screens inside the bus and projected onto the walls surrounding the bus, there are vignettes with actors playing Harriet Tubman, Dred Scott, Homer Plessy, etc. It was a little hokey but probably effective in reaching the internet generation.
The other exhibits do a good job of contextualizing Rosa Parks. They mention that she went to Highlander and also explain the role of Joanne Robinson and the women behind the Montgomery Bus Boycott.
Many times I felt we were on "holy ground." There was a kind of cognitive dissonance between imagining these places that I have studied and seen in documentaries and actually being there. Nowhere did I feel this more keenly than at the Dexter Avenue Baptist Church, where Martin Luther King Jr. served as pastor from 1954-1966.
"Mass meetings"--how many times have I read that phrase? But the churches were small! Hundreds and thousands of people crowded into churches that were simply not that big. And yet many of them sheltered the Freedom Riders and other demonstrators with angry mobs outside. Even Dexter Avenue Baptist, which is considered the "upper class" church, seemed so humble to me. It is literally in the shadow of the state capitol building. I have never seen a whiter building in my life--maybe because it was sunny--but it seemed so very white. That is the building where angry citizens wanted to carry Jimmie Lee Jackson's body after he was shot in a demonstration in Selma, trying to shield his mother from being attacked.
For years, I have read about the work of Morris Dees and the Southern Poverty Law Center. So it was very moving to finally be there and to see Maya Lin's magnificent memorial to 40 martyrs of the civil rights movement. It is a circle with their names listed around it; water runs over the surface and you can run your hands over the names. There is a space at the end of the list, to remind us that the struggle is not over and we are a part of it. This is where the singing of "We Shall Overcome" really got to me.
Water also runs down the wall behind the monument inscribed with MLK's beautiful quote:
We also went to First Baptist Church, Dr. Abernathy's more working class congregation. John Lewis told the story of the Freedom Rides, how he eventually reached this church for sanctuary. It is very important to review the details of the first Freedom Rides in May 1961--they are simply unbelievable. The first bus was bombed in Anniston, Alabama. Bull Connor met the 2nd bus in Birmingham, jailed all the riders (including John Lewis) for two days and then drove them at midnight to the Tennessee border, where he dropped them off in the middle of nowhere, deep in Alabama Klan country. Amazingly, they all decided to go back to Birmingham to continue the ride on a Greyhound bus toward Jackson, Mississippi. After phone calls from the White House, the Freedom Riders were supposed to have police and Alabama Highway Patrol escorts all the way to Montgomery. But as they got to the Montgomery Greyhound Terminal, things became eerily quiet and deserted. As John Lewis and Jim Zwerg and the others got off the bus, a mob appeared and started attacking them, as well as the press waiting for their arrival. John Lewis was hit on the head and rendered unconscious. So was RFK's personal representative, John Siegenthaler.
After being treated, John Lewis and the Freedom Riders slept in local people's homes until the weekend, when they went to Dr. Abernathy's church for a mass meeting at which Dr. King would speak. 1,500 people were in that church, as well as press, when a white mob surrounded it. They started throwing rocks and Molotov cocktails. I could not believe I was in this church 48 years later. Bobby Kennedy spent all night on the phone again with a recalcitrant Governor John Patterson, and eventually it took the National Guard to get those 1,500 people out of the building safely in the middle of the night. John Lewis and Bob Zellner described that night below.
Although King and Farmer and the big boys of the CRM hesitated about continuing the Freedom Rides to Jackson, the students of SNCC, particularly Diane Nash and John Lewis (with a big white bandage on his head), insisted that they must go on. And it was at that point, that other young people, including two of the women I wrote about, started to join them, filling the Hinds County Jail and Parchman Prison in Mississippi all summer long.
THE ROLE OF JEWS IN THE CIVIL RIGHTS MOVEMENT
Saturday night was the big banquet dinner in the ballroom of the Renaissance Hotel, to be followed by the panel. Our moderator, NPR's Nina Totenberg, gave an excellent overview of Jews in the CRM (I actually listened to each word and admired her discerning editorial choices). Then she called us up to the stage. Five armchairs were arranged in a semi-circle. The panel consisted of me and three Jewish men over seventy (at least). That did not bode well. During our conference call the week before, Nina had made us promise to limit ourselves to telling one story in three minutes so that there would be time for follow-up questions and audience discussion. I prepared my remarks on that basis.
Nina called the first speaker, Rabbi Sol Bloom, who had gone down to Birmingham in 1963 with a group of rabbis. Describing it as the most meaningful experience of his life, it was pretty much all about him. The second speaker, an adorable gnome-like man, Sol Kimmerling of Birmingham, began to read his 20-page text about how Jews were part of a behind the scenes coalition to get rid of Bull Connor. Nina gently asked him to focus. He didn't. Then she asked him to cut to the chase. He didn't. Eventually she cut him off and introduced me. The final speaker after me was William Taylor, a lawyer describing how he had worked with Thurgood Marshall.
Nina introduced me by saying that I was WAY too young to have been involved, but I wrote "an important book" (yay) about Jewish women who went South. "Why did so many Jewish women go south, Debra?" Funny you should ask, Nina.
I had been nervous all afternoon at the thought of speaking before 30 members of Congress
and 150 guests. But I have to confess that when I got to that podium,
I felt GOOD. I gave a quick overview of where "my women" had worked in the CRM before Freedom Summer and then told the story of a northern Jewish woman
who had repeatedly gone down to Jackson in 1950 to defend Willie McGee, a black man
facing the death penalty for raping a white woman (even though it was a
consensual sexual relationship). When she returned to try to
get a stay of execution for the third time, no one would rent her a
motel room. Alone, twenty-five years old, and pregnant, she stayed in
a locked bathroom stall in the Jackson bus station all night, hiding from the Klan. Though
she argued for six hours the next day, McGee was executed with 700
whites cheering outside. (Dramatic story, isn't it?)
Then I said, "After this tragic experience, the woman lawyer had a miscarriage, but she went on to become the mother of two daughters. She also went on to become the first Jewish woman elected to the House of Representatives, your Congressional colleague Bella Abzug." A roar went up from the crowd. It was GREAT! I felt so happy to honor Bella.
I spoke of the CRM as "the borning struggle" (Bernice Johnson Reagon) and expressed gratitude "as a feminist of the Joshua generation" to John Lewis, Jim Lawson and the whole movement. I said the F-word on purpose; I want to de-stigmatize it and no one is going to take it away from me.
I concluded by riffing on the theme of Faith and Politics, since that is the name of the Institute. I said "Jews went south because politics WAS their faith, but even the most SECULAR among them believed in a power greater than themselves--the one John Lewis names so beautifully in his memoir--the Spirit of History." I thanked them for allowing me to touch that spirit on this journey and sat down in my armchair to a nice round of applause.
On the bus the next day, Steny Hoyer came over to tell me that I did a good job and my analysis was excellent. That was pretty heady, coming from the House Majority Whip (who has a very nice smile, by the way). Here's Steny and Nina in Selma:
But the best came the following day as we waited to board the plane to go home. A congressman's wife sitting next to me said she had enjoyed my remarks. I thanked her. Then she said, "By the way, I was sitting next to Chris Matthews. He was very annoyed at the panel, but he said "She's the only one who knows how to communicate." I found that extremely funny (and of course a great compliment coming from such a kvetch).
NO TIME TO DWELL--ON TO SELMA
We had to leave our bags outside our hotel rooms at 7 AM for the "sweep." We would see them again in DC that night. On the bus to Selma, we watched the "Eyes on the Prize" episode about the march. Even though I "KNOW" all of this, it was still unbelievable to see that footage.
When we got to the Edmund Pettus Bridge for a photo op, I was shocked at how big it is. In the famous pictures, you only see John Lewis and Hosea Williams on the left sidewalk, leading a line of people walking in twos. In my mind, I had always pictured it like the little bridge upstate in Esopus near Leslie's house. It is actually very wide and steep, with the water far, far below.
So I finally understood how it was that on March 7, 1965, when they marched up the front "slope," they did not initially see the row of troopers on foot and horseback waiting for them at the bottom on the other side. It was unbelievable to imagine how John Lewis and Hosea Williams had to make a split second decision about whether to march into that--and they did.
On the bridge John Lewis greeted people who had been on the march, as well as the lady who sheltered him after he was beaten and teargassed. He is holding her hand in the picture below.
I kept thinking, "It can't get better than this" and then it did. We then went for a worship service commemorating the 44th anniversary of "Bloody Sunday" at Brown AME Chapel, which was the starting point for King's later march from Selma to Montgomery.
We knew we would be hearing from Attorney General Eric Holder, so that was exciting, but much more unfolded. As I settled into my seat, I thought, "Am I hallucinating or is that Jesse Jackson?" It was, along with Al Sharpton. As John Lewis said later, "The first time I marched over that bridge, no one was jockeying for position in the front of the line." But to the credit of the church's pastor, he gave speaking precedence to the real heroes--Hosea Williams' daughter and Sheyann Webb, who marched when she was eight years old. Now fifty-two, she was a very powerful speaker and I remembered reading her book, "Selma, Lord, Selma," written for young people.
It was hard to imagine an 8-year old being tear-gassed, trampled by the crowd and horses. Hosea Williams picked her up as they were all running back across the bridge and she told him to put her down because he wasn't running fast enough!
The program at Brown AME church was very long ("almost as long as the Selma to Montgomery march," noted the adorable John Lewis). It was very exciting when Artur Davis (D-Alabama) introduced Peggy Wallace Kennedy, the daughter of George Wallace.
Wallace was first elected governor in 1962, with the largest popular vote in state history. He stood in the door of the University of Alabama to block desegregation efforts and declared: "I draw the line in the dust and toss the gauntlet before the feet of tyranny, and I say, segregation now, segregation tomorrow, segregation forever." The two students trying to get in were James Hood and the late Vivian Malone.
Unbeknownst to many of us, certainly me, is that Eric Holder is married to Vivian Malone's sister. So he came to speak not only as the first African American Attorney General, but as Vivian Malone's brother-in-law. Peggy Kennedy Wallace introduced him in a moving way, compassionately repudiating her father's legacy. She said that she had been apolitical for many years but "woke up" when Barack Obama announced his candidacy. She decided to back him, also as an act of changing the legacy that her children and grandchildren would inherit.
It was a very strong statement about memory, self-empowerment, and change--coming from the diminutive woman below:
Thank you for your post. (I have tears of joy, embarrassing my 10-year old). John Lewis is one of my heroes, not only for what he has done for the Civil Rights movement, but for his commitment to American Democracy. Slogging through and trying to make things better for all American, with all the set backs we have endured, takes courage and strength.
Posted by: Joy Marcus | March 13, 2009 at 08:23 AM
Brava,Debra! What a wonderful experience and so well told!
xo
Hettie
Posted by: Hettie Jones | March 14, 2009 at 12:53 PM
Dear Debra,
What a fabulous account of an incredible experience - congratulations to you. WOW! (I can just imagine the dramatic unfolding of the story about Bella and the audience cheers at the punch-line, too!)
Thank you so much! (You should do an article for Ebony about this conference/trip).
Liz
Posted by: Liz Sackler | March 15, 2009 at 05:22 AM
Wonderful! Thank you Debra for bringing this amazing commemoration alive for me. It's a shame the media did not give us move coverage. Congratulations for your inspiring contribution.
Posted by: Julie Shaw | March 23, 2009 at 09:25 AM
Deb -
This is truly amazing. Thank you so much for sharing!!!
xoxo
Em
Posted by: Emilie Neumann | March 30, 2009 at 04:04 PM
"...such a kvetch."
What's a kvetch?
claire
Posted by: claire | April 06, 2009 at 03:19 PM
See this article about the "coming from the diminutive woman"
http://www.cnn.com/2008/POLITICS/11/03/wallace.kennedy.obama/index.html
Posted by: claire | April 06, 2009 at 03:28 PM